6. Take five

Everyone knows that Lisbon is beautiful, that Sintra is spectacular , and Portuguese beaches are great for surfers. But these five places are less well known, and the best that we found as we drove down towards Spain.

Aveiro and the Costa Nova

This town is known as the Venice of Portugal for its waterways and gondola-like boats. Once used for fishing, they now carry tourists up and down the canals, offering them great views of the spectacularly pretty Art Nouveau architecture.

These make a change from the usual Portuguese coastal properties, which are tiled to within an inch of their lives (as sensible protection from the salty sea winds). Many of these are delightful as well, but the majority make you believe you are still in 1975.

The maritime history of Portugal is often celebrated in Manueline style (so named for King Manuel I, as it developed during his reign in the late fifteenth to early sixteenth centuries). Apart from some truly great monasteries and palaces, the cobbled paving stones here often depict sea-faring themes. 

Nearby, the Costa Nova is the local beach. Stretching out on a thin spit of land, it has embraced the ‘beach hut’ theme and taken it to new heights


Obidos

I know this is very touristy, but it is still rather nice (hence ending up rather touristy). It is a small town enclosed by a medieval wall, which you can walk all the way around if you have a good head for heights. Which I don’t. So I manage half, and do most of the stairways on my bottom. 

This view shows the town from one end of the wall, with the castle at the other. 
Yes, I am that high up.

To celebrate its medieval history, the town throws a festival each year. On the day we visit they are dismantling an entire village that’s been built around the castle, including a theatre, market, and jousting ring. They also sell some fabulously authentic-looking costumes in town, with lots of mini swords and things for the kids (pissed off I missed it, actually). Still a good place for some Romeo and Juliet moments, though.


Praia de Odeceixe

Without doubt, our favourite place. A river winds its way down to a wide, sandy beach with rock pools, a cave, great surfing, and a cafe.

We have a choice of camping high on the cliffs, where we can look out on the tumbling waves and walk down to the beach and cafe, or on the other side of the riverbank, where it is quiet and serene.

In the crystal clear river, we see crabs, and fish, and elegantly wafting sea-slugs (Steve says they’re so nice they’ve been upgraded to sea-hares).


Batalha

One day, we have to leave the van to get her electrics fixed. We look for something local on our map and spot Batalha, which has two stars. We haven’t had any internet for days, so we just fetch up at a fairly uninspiring looking town, turn a corner, and promptly have our minds blown.

Because this.

This amazing monastery was commissioned, by King John I, to thank the Virgin Mary for the Portuguese victory against the Castilians in 1385. It took nearly 200 years to complete, employing the skills of fifteen different architects, five of them being the best of the best. It is Portugal’s equivalent of Westminster Abbey, and it is astonishing.

In fact, it is beyond stunning. Just go there.


And last, but SO not least…

Somewhere near Moncarapacho

We’ve arranged to meet up with Steve’s brother and his wife in Faro. The campsite we find is just outside the village of Moncarapacho, and we both make our way there independently, as I have to stop for petrol.

Despite the delay I get there first and – as Deirdre the sat-nav slut can be a cow – I assume she’s taken Steve the wrong way again. Sure enough, I get a phone call from a very tired and stressed out husband saying, ‘I’m lost and I’ve no idea where I am; can you come and find me?’

Well, for once, this is a thoughtful move on Deirdre’s part, as the ‘wrong way’ takes him past this place.

And the next day he takes me there too.

This young man has spent the last five years carefully carving, building, moulding and creating a museum honouring the history of Portugal – on top of his house.

His English was poor and my Portuguese consists of about ten words (most of which are usually seen on road signs – velocidade, for instance), so the best we could work out was that he did this because there wasn’t anybody else who had.

He started with the creation story, but included a monkey to signify Darwin’s theories too: tactful, if weird.

Then we have the crucifixion. I particularly like the way the Virgin Mary looks as if she’s wearing a dress made of squirty cream.

And who could forget the Inquisition? Amongst some fairly painful looking scenes was this rather fetching witch.

And for those who didn’t make it through that time, San Pedro (St. Peter) was waiting for them in paradise (captions welcome for what the angels are thinking!).

He was a lovely guy, and the place was extraordinary in the truest sense of the word. If you’re ever in that neck of the woods, I’ll send you the co-ordinates. It’s worth it.


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